






Helen, who had had trouble sleeping, had a much better rest that night and the next morning we headed off in our jeeps on the Salt Flat tour. Our jeep was the same crew who had been horse riding the day before, and the kiwis were in a different jeep.

Chewing our own weight in coca leaves and probably popping one or two valium too many, we eventually arrived in the little town where we would bed down for the first night.




We played hakisak with some local kids and got startled by the biggest bird carcass anyone had ever seen. Turns out it was only a baby. While this was going on, Helen was growing increasingly ill. This, as it turns out, was going to be bad news for everybody. Especially me. And especially my knees...

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